As the highly anticipated season of London Fashion Week moves towards next week, it will fall during Queen Elizabeth II’s national mourning period. Some fashion houses – like Burberry – have already canceled their shows, with the announcement of further reshuffles.
Most of the shows, however, will go on as planned, with the British Fashion Council stating: “London Fashion Week is a business-to-business event and an important time for designers to showcase their collections at a specific time. of the fashion calendar, we recognize the work that goes on right now ”.
Queen Elizabeth II has had a longstanding relationship with fashion and in 2018 launched the QEII Award for British Design: recipients include Richard Quinn, Priya Ahluwalia and Saul Nash. The queen was a staunch supporter of British fashion and, with her award, she aimed to recognize design excellence.
While the award usually goes to a rising star of British design, the same queen has opted for more traditional wardrobe choices, targeting the same handful of designers over and over again. Below, we walk you through some of Her Majesty’s most beloved stylists, from dresses that symbolized a historic moment in her to her most dependable wax jacket.
Hardy Amies, stylist and expert tailor, was the Queen’s official tailor for 50 years. The two first began collaborating in the 1950s, before the queen’s coronation while she was still a princess, during her tour of Canada. In 1955 she appointed him one of her three official tailors, although in 1990 he renounced the royal mandate.
More than just the queen’s official tailor, Amies was an author, tailor and costume designer (as well as an ambassador and martini connoisseur). He designed the costumes for Stanley Kubrick’s first film, 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968), as well as uniforms for mountain rescue teams.
The designer once said of the queen: “The queen has the most perfect manners. She gives you her undivided attention to her and never makes a critical remark. The only sign of disapproval is a raised eyebrow … But you get the message.
Prior to Hardy Amies, in the 1940s, Norman Hartnell was appointed official tailor of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, and subsequently of HM Queen Elizabeth II in 1957. The first Norman Hartnell dress the Queen wore was a princess, when she was a nine-year-old bridesmaid at Lady Alice Montagu Douglas Scott’s wedding to Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester.
Hartnell’s work was endorsed by the likes of Coco Chanel, while his friendship group included master tailors Christan Dior and Mainbocher. After an already illustrious career and a great impact on the London luxury fashion scene, in 1947 Queen Elizabeth II asked Hartnell to design her wedding dress and, six years later, also her Coronation gown. her.
Norman Hartnell is celebrated throughout history as the man responsible for dressing up some of Her Majesty’s most significant moments. Even those who do not know his name will see his work when they depict an image of the queen.
During his time at Balmoral in particular, one wardrobe item was certain: the Barbour jacket. The British brand – founded in 1894 – has received three Royal warrants, the first being awarded by His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh in 1974. Renowned for its wax jackets, Barbour was loved not only by the Queen but by the entire Royal family.
Founded nearly 130 years ago, the first Barbour jackets were made from leftover sails and coated with fish oil, which, as you can imagine, smelled awful. By the time he was adopted by the Royals, of course, the smell had long since disappeared.
Barbour prides itself on timelessness, even the queen is said to have worn the same jacket for over 25 years. It is thought that she asked to re-wax the jacket around the time of the Diamond Jubilee in 2012 and was offered a new one to replace it, instead she asked for her old one back.
This morning Burberry announced the cancellation of the London Fashion Week show that was due to take place next Saturday. As one of the oldest British heritage brands that are part of LFW – with ingrained ties to the royal family – it is no surprise that the brand chose to “cry with the nation” rather than go on with its show. Additionally, in 1955 Burberry received a royal mandate as the Queen’s favorite “Weatherproofers”, and later received a second mandate from the Prince of Wales as a favorite “Outfitters”.
As one of the most celebrated British brands, inherently English linking generations and cultures, it is perhaps the only brand on this list as coveted by the queen as it is by teenage boys. Her Majesty was pictured most often wearing a Burberry trench coat and veil.
In 2018, Queen Elizabeth launched the first Queen Elizabeth II Award, an award that recognizes pioneering design talent “which displays exceptional talent and originality, while demonstrating community value and / or strong sustainable policies,” according to British Fashion Council.
During a very special moment in the history of fashion, the queen herself attended Richard Quinn’s AW18 fashion show and made the London designer the first recipient of the award. Attendees waited waiting to see who would take the seat with the velvet cushion next to Anna Wintour: they were not disappointed, tears were shed as she made her appearance.
While Richard Quinn’s designs may not have been a staple in the queen’s wardrobe, her talent, commitment and innovation were something she chose to honor, just two years after her graduation. About her Her tastes and her regimes may have been under traditional and historical brands, but she hasn’t let that stop her from recognizing young talent.